What to see in Leiria ?

Leiria is organised around a medieval castle perched on a rocky outcrop that has watched over the city since the twelfth century. It's not a postcard destination: it's a Portuguese university town that moves to its own rhythm, with a lively centre around Praça Rodrigues Lobo and a river, the Lis, that winds quietly through the neighbourhoods. The history here is substantial — it was where João I had the first books in Portugal printed.

Spring and autumn offer genuine comfort for getting around on foot, which remains the best way to explore the historic centre. Allow a day and a half to avoid skimming over things. Leiria also serves as an efficient base for reaching Batalha or Alcobaça. Don't concentrate your visit on the castle alone: the lower town, often overlooked, deserves just as much attention.