What to see in Prague ?

Prague operates on a logic of layers: Baroque covers Gothic, which covers Romanesque, and every street in Malá Strana or around Charles Bridge reveals something unexpected if you look up at the right moment. The city passed through the twentieth century without major bombardment, which explains this architectural density rare in Central Europe. It's not a museum-city for all that-residents actually inhabit it, with neighbourhood markets, kavárny and political debates that linger late into the evening.

Spring (April–May) and autumn (September–October) offer reasonable footfall and favourable light. Three days suffice to move beyond the surface, four to begin understanding. The tram is the best navigation tool-fast, dense, used by everyone. Avoid restaurants directly on the Old Town Square: prices double and quality drops; worthwhile addresses are found ten minutes on foot away.