What to see in Albi ?

Albi derives its identity from a single colour: the ochre red of its terracotta bricks, omnipresent from the Cathedral of Sainte-Cécile to the banks of the Tarn. This 13th-century religious fortress, built after the Crusade against the Cathars, says much about the character of the town—resolute, marked by a violent history it has made no attempt to erase. The Madeleine quarter, with its medieval alleyways, confirms that the UNESCO-listed historic centre merits attention.

Two days suffice to see the essentials without rushing. Spring and autumn offer light that flatters the brickwork without the stifling heat of July. Albi is best explored on foot once you're there; the train journey from Toulouse takes an hour. Avoid concentrating your visit on the Toulouse-Lautrec museum on a Sunday morning: tour groups pile in early, far better to visit in late afternoon.