What to see in Bordeaux ?

Bordeaux long lived in the shadow of its vineyards, but the city itself deserves a proper look. Its UNESCO-listed centre unrolls a coherent neoclassical architecture along the Garonne, and the Place de la Bourse reflected in the Miroir d'eau gives you a fair sense of the balance between rigour and lightness that characterises the place. It's a city that works, that eats well, and that doesn't labour to seduce at all costs.

Spring and early autumn offer the best conditions for a visit, with two to three days sufficient to grasp the essentials. The tram efficiently covers the centre without needing a car. Avoid concentrating your stay solely on organised cellar tours and tastings around the Cité du Vin-they peddle a packaged version of local wine culture, whereas neighbourhood wine merchants tell a far more nuanced story.