What to see in Cassis ?

Cassis nestles in a limestone cradle between the calanque cliffs and a fishing harbour that's kept its human proportions. It's not Marseille, it's not Saint-Tropez: it's a town moving at its own pace, sustained by its Cassis AOC vines and brightly painted boats moored along the Quai des Baux. History is discreet but present here, from the medieval castle overlooking the roofs to old fishermen's houses converted without too much damage.

The best window runs May to June or September, when light is clear and crowds still manageable. Two days are enough to explore the Port-Miou and Port-Pin calanques on foot or by boat, and taste the local white wine in a town-centre cellar. Avoid hiring a car for getting around the village itself: summer parking is a nightmare and everything's on foot anyway. Don't fall for the restaurants on the front row of the harbour either—often mediocre despite the position.