What to see in Chenonceaux ?

Chenonceaux owes its fame to a single building: the Château of the Ladies, built across the Cher, whose arches span the river with an elegance owing as much to history as to geography. It was women - Diane de Poitiers, Catherine de Médicis - who shaped the place, and this feminine continuity gives it a coherence rare among Loire châteaux. The village around it is minuscule and lives entirely in the monument's shadow.

Two hours suffice to tour the château and gardens, but staying overnight lets you arrive early before the coaches roll in. September is ideal: the light sits low, crowds thin out. Trains run easily from Tours. Avoid buying your ticket at the last minute on a summer weekend: queues at the ticket office eat up precious time.