What to see in Montpellier ?

Montpellier draws its character from the tension between a dense medieval town-L'Écusson and its limestone alleys-and a university metropolis that perpetually rejuvenates itself. A third of the population is student, which lends a particular rhythm to the districts, genuine neighbourhood life rather than a tourist façade. History here runs through medicine: the faculty founded in 1220 is among Europe's oldest still in active use.

Spring and early autumn offer the best conditions; summer turns the centre into a furnace and throughway. Two days are enough to get the measure of the city; a third might be spent reaching Grande-Motte or Sète by tram or bike. The tramway covers most of the territory, and cars are unnecessary, even counterproductive. Steer clear of Place de la Comédie on a Sunday afternoon: it concentrates the bustle without really reflecting what Montpellier has to offer.