What to see in Reims ?

Reims defines itself through a constant tension between stone and champagne-the Cathedral of Notre-Dame, a seven-century building project, dominates a city that crowned twenty-six Kings of France and continues to produce its bubbles in caves excavated by the Romans. It's not a museum town: brasseries in the centre sit alongside contemporary art galleries, and locals possess a quiet pride, free of chauvinism.

Spring and early autumn offer the best visiting conditions, with temperate days and the cellars of Maison Ruinart or Taittinger accessible without advance booking for weeks ahead. Two days suffice to cover the essentials without rushing. The train from Paris-Est takes forty-five minutes, making a car unnecessary. Avoid group tastings at the grand houses on the boulevard-inflated prices don't buy a better experience.