What to see in Saint-Paul-de-Vence ?

Saint-Paul-de-Vence holds within its medieval alleyways a rare tension: that of a sixteenth-century fortified village that has embraced contemporary art as its second nature. It is no coincidence that the Fondation Maeght established itself here in 1964—the place has attracted painters, sculptors and collectors for decades, many of whom have simply stayed put. The result is a village where galleries sit alongside ramparts without one overshadowing the other.

Spring or September are preferable to avoid the summer crush: in July and August, the alleyways become impassable before 10 a.m. Two days are more than sufficient, including a half-day at the Fondation Maeght. You can drive here from Nice in forty minutes or take a shuttle from Vence. The classic pitfall: confining yourself to the commercial Grand-Rue and missing the calmer, far more revealing northern ramparts.