What to see in Saint-Paul-de-Vence ?

Saint-Paul-de-Vence holds within its medieval alleyways a rare tension: that of a sixteenth-century fortified village that has embraced contemporary art as its second nature. It is no coincidence that the Fondation Maeght established itself here in 1964-the place has attracted painters, sculptors and collectors for decades, many of whom have simply stayed put. The result is a village where galleries sit alongside ramparts without one overshadowing the other.

Spring or September are preferable to avoid the summer crush: in July and August, the alleyways become impassable before 10 a.m. Two days are more than sufficient, including a half-day at the Fondation Maeght. You can drive here from Nice in forty minutes or take a shuttle from Vence. The classic pitfall: confining yourself to the commercial Grand-Rue and missing the calmer, far more revealing northern ramparts.