What to see in Sarlat ?

Sarlat-la-Canéda is a medieval town in the Périgord Noir whose historic centre has survived nearly intact since the 15th century, making it a rare case in France. The alleyways around the cathedral of Saint-Sacerdos and the lantern of the dead still function as a living town, not a frozen set piece. The ochre-golden stone shifts colour with the hour, and locals shop Saturday mornings much as they have for generations.

The best period runs from mid-September to late October: summer tourists have departed, truffle and walnut markets begin, and temperatures remain agreeable. Two days suffice to explore the centre on foot, though plan for a car to venture to châteaux in the Dordogne valley. Avoid the Wednesday market in July-August if you dislike dense crowds: it's become heavily frequented and prices reflect the season.