What to see in Villandry ?

Villandry is, above all, a question of order and colour. The château owes its reputation not to its Renaissance architecture-respectable without being remarkable-but to its terraced gardens: geometrically precise vegetable plots, ornamental gardens trimmed with military precision, pools reflecting the Touraine sky. It's a place where you come to understand that gardening can be an art form in its own right.

The village can be seen in half a day, ideally paired with Azay-le-Rideau some twenty kilometres away. Visit between May and October, preferably midweek to avoid the tour coaches that clog the paths between 10am and 2pm. Without a car, access from Tours remains tricky: bus connections are sparse. Skip the jam shop at the entrance-overpriced and wholly out of keeping with the place.