What to see in Heidelberg ?

Heidelberg owes its reputation to a rare balance between medieval ruins and a vibrant university town. The Schloss, perched above the Neckar, is far more than postcard scenery: it quite literally structures the city, both physically and mentally. Founded in the thirteenth century, Heidelberg survived the wars of Louis XIV that devastated the region, and this architectural scar is still legible in its eroded red stone.

The best time to visit is spring or early September, when students are around but tour buses are fewer. Two days are enough to explore the castle and walk the Philosophenweg without rushing. The train from Frankfurt takes forty minutes and remains the simplest option. Avoid the Hauptstrasse on a Saturday afternoon: it's a decent pedestrian street, but it concentrates everything least interesting about the city.