What to see in Cagliari ?

Cagliari is part Mediterranean port, part rocky hilltop town, perched on its limestone hills above the Gulf of Angels. The Castello quarter, ringed by Pisan ramparts, concentrates much of Sardinian identity: narrow alleys, yellow stone palaces, and a cathedral dating back to the thirteenth century. The city moves at its own pace, making no effort to charm at all costs.

Spring (April–May) and autumn remain your best windows: the heat is manageable and Poetto beach isn't yet overrun. Three days will see you through the city, though add another if you want to reach the flamingos in the Molentargius lagoons. City buses cover most things; avoid hiring a car in the centre—parking is a proper nightmare. Skip restaurants with laminated photographs: the decent places are always tucked away somewhere less obvious.