What to see in Capri ?

Capri isn't a frozen postcard island: it's a limestone crag planted in the Gulf of Naples, inhabited since Roman times, that's managed to stay a real place despite decades of heavy tourism. The Piazzetta, that tiny paved square at the heart of Anacapri, still functions as a village-provided you arrive early, before the ferries disgorge their passengers.

The best time is May or September, when the light is sharp and crowds manageable. Two days will let you explore the island properly, hiring a scooter rather than paying inflated taxi fares. Skip the Grotta Azzurra in high season: the boat queue often runs two hours for thirty seconds inside.