What to see in Ferrare ?

Ferrara is a town of the Po valley plain that has managed to remain itself: neither overwhelmed by tourists nor frozen as an open-air museum. Capital of the Este family in the fifteenth century, it has preserved an intact medieval centre and a network of cycle paths that still structure the daily life of residents. The Castello Estense, planted at the heart of the town with its moat, immediately sets the tone: quiet power, without pretension.

Spring and autumn are the most pleasant seasons, with distinctive light across the plain's haze. Two days suffice to explore the centre and cycle along the ramparts, the essential means of transport here. Hire a bicycle on arrival rather than trying to do everything on foot. Avoid concentrating your visit solely on the Cathedral of San Giorgio: the medieval quarter around Via delle Volte deserves as much attention.