What to see in Genoa ?

Genoa resists mass tourism with an almost provocative indifference. Its caruggi—medieval alleyways that burrow between abandoned Renaissance palaces—form a labyrinth where the city lives for itself, not its visitors. The Palazzo dei Rolli, a network of aristocratic mansions inscribed on the UNESCO list, reminds you that this city was one of Europe's financial powers for three centuries.

Two to three days are enough to grasp the essentials, ideally in April–May or September, before the heat makes the caruggi suffocating. The train from Milan or Turin takes under two hours and remains the simplest option. Avoid confining your stay to the revamped old port designed by Renzo Piano: the Acquarium and its surroundings are manageable, but it's the upper city—where residents actually live—that truly deserves your time.