What to see in Naples ?

Naples resists all staging. The city operates by its own rules: Spaccanapoli cuts through the historic centre like a living scar, scooters negotiate the alleys of Quartieri Spagnoli without slowing, and pizza is eaten standing up, folded in four, at the counter. It's a city that demands a period of adjustment before it reveals its inner logic.

September and October offer the best window: the heat eases, summer tourists depart. Budget a minimum of three days to get beneath the surface. The train from Rome remains the sensible option-forget driving in the city, it's a mistake you'll only make once. Avoid restaurants displaying photographs of dishes on their façades around Maschio Angioino: the concentration of tourist traps is particularly dense there.