What to see in Funchal ?

Funchal is a city that builds vertically. Constructed on the flanks of a volcanic caldera, Madeira's capital blends Portuguese colonial architecture, dense botanical gardens, and working-class neighbourhoods where Madeira wine is still drunk at the bar counter. The Mercado dos Lavradores, with its tropical fruit stalls and vendors in traditional dress, gives you an honest sense of what the city really is: an Atlantic port that has kept its habits.

The best period falls between April and June, before summer heat and the prices that rise with cruise passengers. Three days suffice to explore the centre, ride the cable car up to Monte Palace, and descend in a traditional toboggan. Avoid hiring a car for the city itself: the streets are narrow and parking absurd. However, a car becomes essential once you want to reach the levadas inland.