What to see in Mafra ?

Mafra is often reduced to its palace-monastery, which is a mistake. This eighteenth-century monument, commissioned by João V in a fit of baroque excess, houses a library of 36,000 volumes that leaves you breathless. The town around it is small, quiet, still largely untouched by the mass tourism that has engulfed Sintra, some thirty kilometres away.

Half a day suffices for the palace, but spend a night if you want to explore the Tapada Nacional de Mafra, a former royal hunting reserve now open to the public. Spring remains the best season, before the heat and school coaches arrive. From Lisbon, the Mafrense bus is more practical than driving to avoid car park hassles. Avoid Mondays: the palace is closed and the town offers few alternatives.