What to see in Tavira ?

Tavira was built on two banks of the Gilão, connected by a Roman bridge that the Moors later fortified. The town boasts more than thirty churches for barely thirteen thousand residents, which says something about its relationship with time and stone. This isn't the Algarve of beach complexes: here, Mudéjar architecture still stands and the alleys smell of drying washing rather than sunscreen.

The best window for visiting runs from April to June, before the heat stagnates everything and prices double. Two days suffice to cover the centre, though set aside a half-day to reach Tavira's barrier island by ferry from the Quai des Quatre Eaux. Skip renting a car if you're staying in town: the centre takes twenty minutes on foot and parking is a nightmare. Avoid eating along the Gilão - restaurants there are systematically overpriced.