What to see in Tolède ?

Toledo is a palimpsest of a town: three religions coexisted here for centuries, and their traces remain legible in the stone. The Alcázar dominates the hill, the Gothic cathedral looms over everything around it, and between the two, medieval alleys where you lose yourself without effort. This historical density packed into a few square kilometres is rare in Europe.

Two days prevent you from skimming the surface, but avoid weekends: coachloads from Madrid disgorge thousands of visitors in hours, making the centre airless. Come on a weekday, preferably in April or October. The train from Atocha is fast and direct. Resist the shops selling stainless steel swords marketed as local craft-genuine Toledo cutlery still exists, but it's rare and expensive.