What to see in Edinburgh ?

Edinburgh operates on two levels, literally as much as figuratively. The Old Town stacks itself on volcanic hills around the Royal Mile, with its dark closes and hidden courtyards that tell seven centuries of politics and violence. The Georgian New Town unrolls its orderly avenues like a rational answer to the medieval chaos opposite. This coexistence gives the city a density rare for its size.

Spring and early autumn strike a reasonable balance between light and visitor numbers, provided you avoid August, entirely absorbed by the Festival Fringe. Three days suffice for a serious first visit, on foot-the city reads better walked than by bus. The classic trap: spending too long in the tartan shops of the Royal Mile at the expense of Edinburgh Castle itself, which deserves two hours without rushing.